How Lisbon eats
Lisbon’s food mixes humble neighborhood cooking with fresh seafood and a growing modern restaurant scene. Many traditional places are tascas, small casual eateries serving a daily menu of home-style dishes. Cafes and pastry shops are central to daily life. For background on the dishes themselves, see our guide to Portuguese food and wine.
Must-try foods
- Pasteis de nata: warm custard tarts with a flaky crust, often dusted with cinnamon or sugar. They are found in bakeries across the city.
- Bacalhau: dried salt cod, cooked in countless ways. Bacalhau a bras (shredded with egg and fine fried potato) is a common order.
- Seafood and shellfish: prawns, clams (often with garlic and coriander), grilled fish and sardines in season.
- Bifana: a marinated pork sandwich in a crusty roll, a classic quick bite. Greece’s pork gyros and souvlaki are a good comparison; see popular Greek sandwiches.
- Prego: a thin steak sandwich, similar in spirit to the bifana.
- Frango piri-piri: grilled chicken with a chili sauce, associated with Portugal’s historical links to Africa.
- Caldo verde: the potato and kale soup, often eaten in cooler months.
- Petiscos: shared small plates such as cured sausage, cheese and fried cod fritters.
Most travelers cite pasteis de nata as the single must-eat in Lisbon and, more broadly, in Portugal, though bacalhau and grilled fish also come up often.
Sweets and cafe culture
Pastry cafes (pastelarias) serve coffee, pastries and light lunches throughout the day. Besides pasteis de nata, look for travesseiros and other regional pastries. Coffee is typically small and strong; ask for a bica if you want an espresso.
Drinks
- Ginjinha: a sour cherry liqueur, often served in small glasses, sometimes with a fruit in the glass.
- Vinho verde: a light, fresh wine that suits seafood.
- Port and other Portuguese wines: many bars offer them by the glass.
- Beer: local lagers are served in small glasses, often called a “imperial”.
Where to eat: types of places
- Tascas and traditional restaurants for daily specials and generous portions
- Cervejarias for shellfish and beer
- Pastelarias for breakfast and snacks
- Food halls for sampling many vendors in one place
- Modern restaurants with contemporary takes on Portuguese ingredients
Specific restaurants open, close and change frequently, so check current opening hours and reviews before you go, and book ahead for popular places.
Neighborhoods
- Baixa and Chiado: central areas with cafes and traditional restaurants
- Alfama and Mouraria: older districts with small local places
- Bairro Alto: known for evening bars and late dining
- Belem: the riverside district known for its historic pastry shop
- Cais do Sodre: a lively area around the riverfront with a large food hall
Dos and don’ts
- Do try something local, such as a pastel de nata or grilled fish, at least once.
- Do ask about the price of fish, which is often sold by weight.
- Do expect a bread, butter, olives or cheese starter (couvert) to be placed on the table. In Portugal this is usually charged only if you eat it, but check your bill.
- Do not assume you must tip a fixed percentage. Tipping practices are modest and rounding up or leaving a small amount is common, but customs may vary.
- Do not expect early dinners; many restaurants fill later in the evening.
- Be cautious with tourist-heavy streets where menus with photos may be priced higher.
Food to buy and take home
Popular edible souvenirs include:
- Tinned fish (conservas), a longstanding Portuguese product
- Dried salt cod (check import rules for your country)
- Bottles of port, ginjinha or vinho verde
- Canned or vacuum-packed sausages and cheeses (check customs rules)
- Sweets and pastries that travel well, such as almond or egg-based confections
Rules about carrying food and alcohol across borders differ, so confirm them before traveling.
A sample day of eating
- Morning: coffee and a pastry at a local pastelaria.
- Midday: a bifana or the dish of the day at a tasca.
- Afternoon: a ginjinha and a stroll, or a custard tart in Belem.
- Evening: shared seafood or a grilled fish dinner, with vinho verde.
FAQ
What is a must eat in Lisbon?
Pasteis de nata, bacalhau, grilled fish and seafood, and a bifana are the most commonly recommended.
What is a must-try food in Portugal?
Bacalhau and pasteis de nata are widely named. Regional dishes like francesinha in Porto are also popular.
What is a must buy in Lisbon?
Tinned fish, port or ginjinha, and Portuguese sweets are frequent choices.
How does Portuguese food compare to Spain’s?
They share some ingredients, but the dishes differ. Our Iberian dishes guide compares them.